Few new platforms have emerged to facilitate growth outside the traditional channels, and those same channels are still closely guarded by a small, elite group of insiders. This is one of the many areas Simon Doonan touched on in his book Asylum ; an insightful, entertaining and highly thought-provoking read on the lunacy of the industry of fashion. It's a loving memoir, but it explores some important issues that are still stifling the industry today; nepotism included.
What to do? Splash out on a designer number and sell it online a few weeks later? Read the full feature here on Sunday Times Style. Unsustainable fashion raises huge ethical issues.
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But does that warrant keeping everything? And how do you know when it's time to get rid of your clothes? This is a particularly pertinent question for those of us who live in tiny spaces—and unlike Carrie Bradshaw, we actually use our ovens for cooking. Add to the mix the speed at which today's fashion cycle operates, and you're left with quite the predicament. R ead the full feature here on Who What Wear. From a closed-door industry insider event to access all areas and live-streamed shows, the once exclusive affair is now available for the world to see, as it happens.
For the next few weeks your Instagram feed will be flooded with catwalk images, street style snaps and celebrity-filled front rows. What did a pre-iPhone wielding audience look like? Read the full feature here on Refinery Sustainability is a buzzword that many people are sick of hearing. Is this a watershed moment for sustainability? Read the full feature here on Refinery On June 19, for the first time in more than 40 years, Her Majesty is officially dressing down for the State Opening of Parliament.
Imagine steering it through global recession, size zero scandals and the dawn of the digital age. And then imagine coming out the other side — to find a changed world, where everything your magazine stands for is under threat. And as the internet gets better at telling us what we want, what do we need this fashion dictatorship for?
As fashion weeks rage on across the globe, we're reminded that the industry is a largely international and cosmopolitan affair. But with globalisation, and the arrival of the fourth industrial revolution many, in the Western world particularly, have come to take for granted the fact that travel is easy and other cultures are entirely accessible, if not in person then at least via Instagram. Fashion Month has only just finished, but Henry Holland has already found time to make his week-old niece a baby version of one of his SS17 dresses. While some designers get shtick for not making clothes that you can actually wear, this is not a problem that the ever customer-friendly Mr Holland has.
Read the full interview here. What do fashion brands really stand for? Nice new clothes? Keeping up with the latest trends? Or maybe something else — diversity, perhaps, or empowerment? Lining the pockets of rich old men who spend their time tax-dodging on yachts? No doubt your level of cynicism will dictate your answer.
But what if they could stand for something else?
Meet Birdsong. From the mistreated garment workers who make our clothes to the models who help sell them, the medium that once gave women voices when they had none is now a morally bankrupt money machine. At one end of the chain it perpetuates misery and mass environmental damage and at the other it encourages us to spend our disposable income on clothes that we will in turn dispose of.
Garment workers are suffering for what is largely a female addiction. Block colours, more metallics and heaps of embellishment Webster has basically managed to accessorise her accessories with a jewelled, intricate detail that will set this apart as a standout collection for her. Read the full interview with Sophia here on Refinery And I mean everywhere. Particularly if you follow lots of fashion peeps on Instagram.
In fact, you've probably even done it yourself at some point. Unwittingly, maybe. But it still counts. Which is to be avoided, unless you're actually going to a fancy dress party. Victoria Beckham has hung up her stilettos. And last week, London temp worker Nicola Thorp dominated headlines, after she was sent home from PricewaterhouseCoopers without pay, for refusing to wear a high-heeled shoe.
Welcome to the year footwear got political. Read the full article here on Refinery Last November I moved from a three-story semi-detached house to a considerably smaller split level flat. Yes, my previous living situation was as sweet as it sounds, and involved a huge built in wardrobe - as well as a bedroom I could stand up in. Earlier this month, an internet troll accused "plus-size model" and ex-national swimmer Iskra Lawrence of promoting obesity. With eloquent points like "Plus-size models?
Sadly, you will have heard similar body shaming stories many times before, where women are abused online for their appearance. What you may not have heard, is the victim turning around and flipping her online body-shamers the proverbial finger — by asking photographers to shoot her covered in bags of crisps, and then filming an epic slow mo of her eating them. A short message was scrawled back and returned with the boy on the bike. When I finally did return to Liverpool, my peers did not believe that I had ridden to school on a donkey, that some of the children had turned up without shoes and that when you got something wrong, you were smacked across the hands with a cane, which, according to my cousin Maura, was actually a splintered piece of wood that had split away from the side of the press.
Nellie Deane read the tea leaves. One of the main characters in my books, Nana Kathleen, is based on Nellie Deane.
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It is an often humorous tale of how people from poor Irish communities, who settled in Liverpool in the s, survived and supported each other in a way born of a unique generosity of spirit. The books also explore the secret powers which enabled the establishment to steal the lives and babies from young Irish women, not all of whom were as lucky as my grandmother.
I do understand that this new book may upset some readers, but until we accept the reality of a darkness, which stalked the homes of many poor children, there can be no closure or reform. My story centres around two young girls, Nellie I had to name a young character after her and Kitty, and we follow their heart-wrenching, but touching story — continuing on from my debut novel The Four Streets which was published earlier this year. Hide Her Name is largely set on the windy west coast and in a convent laundry, masquerading as a mother and baby home.
Many of the places and scenes are lifted directly from my memories and those of my family. The trilogy ends in the farmhouse where my nana was born, which still stands today and remains the most special place in my childhood. As I wrote the last chapter, it was difficult to see for the tears.
I know that I will return, at some time in the future, to the place and the people who lived a life that is now lost to the modern world, but which I was so lucky to experience, before it was gone. To comment you must now be an Irish Times subscriber.
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